Women
from all over the whole empire have embroidered for the palace while the palace
employed embroiders of its own. Among important Istanbul needleworks are those
of Tepebaşı (silk theread embroidery on woolen fabric; thick silk threaded around
with silver; a very fine work), Üsküdar (Selimiye) and Kumkapı.
But Bursa, once also a capital of the Ottomans and once produced the best silk
materials in the world has given one of the finest examples of hand weaving
and embroideries. It has astyle entirely of its own. The Bursa products now
have their places
Yurdanur
Öndersoy
Most Turks remember the days when their mothers or grandmothers
used to work with a needle embroidering while enjoying a chat with their neighbours.
Nowadays those embroidered pieces of fabric rest in cupboards. But they are
so precious...
In
the Grand Bazaar there is an arcade almost the size of a street called Yağlıkçılar.
Years ago one could find here all sorts of fabrics or emroidery. Although not
as much as those days, today one still finds shops here which carry their ancestors
tradition.
Almost everone in Turkey has heard the word 'yağlık' but do not know exactly
what it is.Yağlık is a Turkish word for pieces of hand woven silk, wool or cotton
fabric larger than a handkerchief, finely embroidered on both edges.
The Ottoman Empire which lasted from the end of 13th Century
till the beginning of the 20th century have combined the cultures of three continents
while Anatolia the center of this empire, being at the crossroads of all Silk
Roads have synthesized the cultures of the East and the west has created new
forms of arts. To this blend of cultures one can add the effects of immigrations
from the north. Unfortunately, the 300 years of delay in the introduction of
printing, very little written documentation is available on these masterpieces
of art. Another reason for this lack of documentation and resulting lack of
information is the humbleness of the creators of such arts coupled with their
lack of interest in their art which they see as a routine. In short, the 'artist'
is not aware of the value she has created or even if she does she has no interest
in displaying her skills.
Among all the embroidery work done on fabrics perhaps the most laboursome is
the so called needle work. Such laboursome work is usually done by young girls
who have learned the skill from their elderlies and prepareng her dowry. The
designs are embroidered on fabrics woven again by the same person who will emroider
them, or leather or felt.
In embroidery the needle is used in varying techniques. The techniques of such
works include Chinese, hesap, suzani, muşabbak, sarma, kanaviçe and Turkic.
In the Turkic work the design can be seen on both sides of the fabric. In other
words there is no front or back sides.
It is very difficult to tell when the term 'Turkish work' was first used. I
personally think that this name was denoted by the Europeans. Back in 1986,
during a visit to London a shopkeeper named a head cover as 'Turkish work'.
It was a 'manyaluka from western Thrace. Manyalukas are pieces of fabric applied
on woolen material using suzani technique.
I have to give you a word of warning at this point. Although the fineness, coloring
and taste in the embroidery is very important, it is also essential that one
should have a knowledge of the piece's origins and use. One has to be able to
distinquish between a cradle spread and a shaving knee spread, or a turban tie
and a scarf.
Just like in carpets and kilims, the Anatolian folk has created endless covers
solely for their own needs. These spreads are covered with designs embroidere
in accordance weth their traditions.Among the outstanding examples of such works
are the Tartar aprons of Eskişehir, the embossed needle work of Bartın, Konya's
frilled hesap works, Malatya's embroidered waist covers, Beypazarı and Kütahya
works, Trabzon's fish back seam embroideries. Doubtless that many more such
spreads or covers do exist in many other provinces.
But embroidery in Istanbul is a different story altogether. Istanbul being the
capitol of the Ottoman Empire has brought together many folk from all over the
world. The demand of the rdyal palace for such embroideries have led to a huge
collection of various techniques.
in
catalogues and museums. Words are not enough to describe a beautiful piece of
embroidery. One has to touch them gently and view them as if they are paintings
of masters in order to have an affection for them. There are even some such
works in which one can find sadness, happiness and joy alltogether.