Istanbulians have differing ideas on the Grand Bazaar. This is only natural as the place has many dimensions and one cannot be expected to get acquainted with. For some it is the center of gold trade; for others, a place to chose your wedding ring; or buy carpets; or antiques; or circumcision custumes; for some it's mystery; and for some the unknown, a sealed box.
But for some it's a place which owes its existance to tourists who shop for souvenirs. This is true only for a part of the shops. These shops constantly watch out for tourists; their keepers can tell the nationality of a group of tourists from a distance with a single glance and hop on their way to attract them to their shops. Some of the tourists are often puzzled or even terrified with this abrupt intervention but some may find this style of approach quite charming while others who have been previously warned take their precautions and just ignore the hustle.
This may be appearent to a Turkish outsider of critical eyes. But, then there is the other side of the coin. What do those tourists who are subjected to this kind of treatment think about the Grand Bazaar and its salesmen of genuine sales techniques?
Bijan Khosrowshahi of Iranian descent is the Vice Chairman of the Board of an American company in Istanbul. He and his American wife Delia M. Khosrowshahi have been living in Istanbul for the last four years. Having visited the Bazaar countless times they now are an expert on the place. We discussed the Grand Bazaar with them at the Cebeci Han in the Bazaar.
We had earlier mentioned that Bijan Knosrowshahi was of Iranian descent. He recalls the days when his grandfather who sold candlesticks, used to take him to the covered bazaar of Tabriz. "I had developed a sense of bazaar culture at my childhood. Anytime I come here I can sense the smells and sounds of the bazaar at Tabriz. Covered bazaars are not peculiar to Turkey; they are Oriental. When I say Oriental I'm not including the sukhs of Arabian countries. More Iranian and Turkish. Still the Grand Bazaar has its own identity."

The couple has arrived in Istanbul in May 1997 for the first time. They went to the Mısır Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar) thinking it was the Grand Bazaar. They were baffled to see how small a place it was to be the fomous 'Grand' Bazaar. Their next visit has been at the beginning of autumn of the same year. That time they had'nt bought anything partially because of the approach of the salesmen. But when they had gone the third time on a cold and rainy day in November, and had met a salesman named Feti, they had taken a liking to the place. Delia Khosrowshahi finds the approach of some of the salesmen quite appauling. She explains: "This is not a place that one should just walk by and buy a few souvenirs. Some salesmen are after a one shot trade.But this kind of approach

prevents the tourist from a relaxed tour of the place. They think that this kind of approach is common to all Turks. But this isn't the reality. The couple has no prejudices now. Mrs. Khorowshahi tells of a precaution that one of her friends have proposed: "This friend told me that the best thing to do is to stand out in crowded place and holding your cellular telephone by your ear, pretend you are leistening to a frien and keep saying yes in Turkish at intervals. Apperantly this way, the salesmen think that you are either Turkish or a Turkish speaking foreigner and avoid you." We all laugh.
Bijan Khosrowshahi explains that the Grand Bazaar is "user friendly". Comparing the place to modern shopping malls he says: "All malls are similar. You will never get a series of shops selling the same thing lined up along a single street. Bazaaar is sectioned off and that's very usefull for the customer. It also is an advantage that there is no second floor. Walking around the domed arcades makes one very tranquil. And if you take your time and hunt around you might find excellent food"
On their way to the Cebeci Han the couple have come across a candlestick which they liked very much. The salesman has asked for 350 dollars for the piece. They had found that price reasonable but their experience has told them to be patient. They told this to a friend in the Cebeci Han. He promptly left the table and came back with an identical piece but at 250 dollars. Experience has saved them a hundred dollars.
Mrs. Khosrowshahi's most memorable moments have been the iftar (breaking of the fast at Ramadan month) times at the Bazaar. "The first time I observed it I found it incredible. I had thought of Ramadan as a time of worship. Seeing the shopkeepers rushing around preparing their food, and eating all together all around the place and their happiness after was a fantastic sight. I still enjoy it very much." She explains.
"But the apple tea" comments Mr. Khosrowshahi "is something out of this world. There is no such tea elsewhere in the world. All our foreign friends talk about this tea offered in every shop in the Grand Bazaar. Then again everything in the Grand Bazaar is special to the place. Grand Bazaar is really special."
The couple says they'll be leaving Istanbul in couple of months. "We are really going to miss the Grand Bazaar" says Mrs. Khosrowshahi as her husband approoves, "But we'll be bck for sure even if it be just for the Grand Bazaar."